🎪 Chapter 07 · Topic 05 · Folk Arts
Handicraft Traditions of India
Bidriware, Meenakari, Kundan, Zardozi, Chikankari, Phulkari, Kantha — India’s celebrated handicraft traditions — complete UPSC & PSC notes.
🔩 Metal Crafts
| Craft | State | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Bidriware | Karnataka (Bidar) | Black zinc-copper alloy inlaid with silver; named after Bidar city; Mughal period origin; GI tagged; intricate floral and geometric patterns |
| Dhokra | Chhattisgarh/WB/Odisha | Lost-wax metal casting; tribal tradition; rustic figurines |
| Bell metal craft | Assam (Sarthebari) | Brass and bell metal utensils; traditional Assamese craft; GI tagged |
| Pattachitra on metal | Odisha | Paintings on metal sheets; Jagannath themes |
💎 Jewellery Crafts
| Craft | State | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Meenakari | Rajasthan (Jaipur) | Enamel work on gold/silver; colourful; floral patterns; Mughal origin; Jaipur is the centre; GI tagged |
| Kundan | Rajasthan (Jaipur) | Setting of gemstones in gold foil; no prongs; flat-set stones; Mughal jewellery tradition; often combined with Meenakari |
| Thewa | Rajasthan (Pratapgarh) | Gold work on glass; intricate scenes; Rajput tradition; GI tagged |
| Filigree (Tarakasi) | Odisha (Cuttack) | Delicate silver wire work; intricate patterns; GI tagged; Cuttack is the silver city |
🧵 Embroidery Traditions
| Embroidery | State | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| Chikankari | Uttar Pradesh (Lucknow) | White thread on white/pastel fabric; delicate shadow work; Mughal origin; Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula patronage; GI tagged |
| Zardozi | UP (Lucknow/Varanasi) | Heavy gold/silver thread embroidery; Mughal court tradition; used on bridal wear; GI tagged |
| Phulkari | Punjab | Floral embroidery on coarse cotton; bright colours; geometric patterns; Bagh (full coverage) and Phulkari (partial); GI tagged |
| Kantha | West Bengal/Bangladesh | Running stitch on old saris/dhotis; recycled fabric; narrative scenes; GI tagged |
| Kasuti | Karnataka | Traditional Karnataka embroidery; geometric patterns; four types of stitches; GI tagged |
| Kashida | Jammu & Kashmir | Chain stitch embroidery; floral motifs; on shawls and fabric |
| Lambani (Banjara) | Karnataka | Tribal embroidery; mirrors, beads, coins; colourful; Lambani/Banjara community; GI tagged |
⭐ Bidriware: Named after Bidar city in Karnataka. Made from a zinc-copper alloy that is blackened using a special mud from Bidar fort. Silver wire is then inlaid into the black surface to create intricate patterns. The contrast between the black metal and silver inlay is striking. Bidriware originated during the Bahmani Sultanate period (14th–15th century CE) under Persian influence. Products include vases, boxes, hookah bases, and decorative items. GI-tagged.
📌 Chikankari: Chikankari is a delicate embroidery tradition from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. It involves white thread embroidery on white or pastel fabric (muslin, cotton, silk). The work creates a shadow effect — the embroidery is visible as a subtle texture. It has Mughal origins and was patronised by the Nawabs of Awadh. There are 32 different stitches in Chikankari. Famous for its use on kurtas, sarees, and dupattas. GI-tagged. Lucknow Chikankari employs hundreds of thousands of artisans, mostly women.
✅ Revision Checklist — Handicrafts
✅ Bidriware = Karnataka (Bidar) = zinc-copper + silver inlay = black surface = GI tagged
✅ Meenakari = Rajasthan (Jaipur) = enamel on gold/silver = Mughal origin = GI tagged
✅ Kundan = Rajasthan = gemstones in gold foil = flat-set = Mughal jewellery
✅ Thewa = Rajasthan (Pratapgarh) = gold work on glass = GI tagged
✅ Filigree (Tarakasi) = Odisha (Cuttack) = silver wire work = GI tagged
✅ Chikankari = UP (Lucknow) = white on white = shadow work = 32 stitches = GI tagged
✅ Zardozi = UP = gold/silver thread = Mughal court = bridal wear = GI tagged
✅ Phulkari = Punjab = floral embroidery = bright colours = Bagh (full coverage)
✅ Kantha = West Bengal = running stitch = recycled fabric = GI tagged
✅ Lambani = Karnataka = tribal = mirrors + beads + coins = GI tagged
✅ Meenakari = Rajasthan (Jaipur) = enamel on gold/silver = Mughal origin = GI tagged
✅ Kundan = Rajasthan = gemstones in gold foil = flat-set = Mughal jewellery
✅ Thewa = Rajasthan (Pratapgarh) = gold work on glass = GI tagged
✅ Filigree (Tarakasi) = Odisha (Cuttack) = silver wire work = GI tagged
✅ Chikankari = UP (Lucknow) = white on white = shadow work = 32 stitches = GI tagged
✅ Zardozi = UP = gold/silver thread = Mughal court = bridal wear = GI tagged
✅ Phulkari = Punjab = floral embroidery = bright colours = Bagh (full coverage)
✅ Kantha = West Bengal = running stitch = recycled fabric = GI tagged
✅ Lambani = Karnataka = tribal = mirrors + beads + coins = GI tagged